Lawn Care
LAWN
MOWING | FEEDING YOUR LAWN | FERTILIZERS
WATERING YOUR LAWN | REMOVING
FALLEN LEAVES
AERATING THE TURF | ROLLING
| TOP DRESSING
LAWN MOWING
In addition to making
the lawn a pleasure to walk on, regular cutting of the grass helps to
create a dense, and healthy sward with an even, and attractive finish.
Mowing is needed most frequently in the warm, moist conditions of early
and late summer; during drought conditions however, it is best either
not to mow at all or set the mower to a higher cut. Delay mowing during
very wet or frosty weather: wet grass can clog the mower or the mower
may slip, and mowing in frost damages the grass.
Maintaining your lawn to the height of a couple of centimeters ensures
that the lawn mowing does not scalp any undulations or bumps that may
be present.
Mowing frequently encourages a thicker denser looking grass.
Removing grass clippings helps to lessen the spread of annual meadow grass
and other weeds. It also helps prevent against thatch.
A mower with a roller provides the finest finish for lawns and create
stripes, but a mower with no roller gives a perfectly acceptable surface
for a utility lawn.
Before cutting your lawn check for stones, pet droppings, toys, sticks
of wood and branches, wire and string. Remove them as they can damage
your mower.
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FEEDING
YOUR LAWN
Although your lawn may be growing well in early spring, it is important
to feed it. This will produce a strong root structure, which will also
create strong blades of grass, keeping out moss and weeds. The bright
green appearance will be maintained over the summer months and it will
help the lawn to become resistant to disease.
For most lawns, two applications of fertilizer a year are sufficient.
Apply a spring/summer fertilizer at the beginning of summer, and then
an autumn/winter one after routine maintenance in early autumn.
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FERTILIZERS
Take care to apply fertilizer evenly as uneven distribution may make the
lawn patchy: It may also damage or even kill areas of grass. Application
can be by hand or a mechanical spreader, which can be purchased or hired.
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WATERING
YOUR LAWN
Established grass generally resists and recovers from drought well without
watering, although growth slows down and the turf turns brown in prolonged
dry spells. It is however essential to water newly made and high quality
lawns thoroughly in dry periods to maintain growth and colour. The best
time to water your lawn is either in the early morning or evening.
Many different sprinklers are available, covering large or small areas:
- One of the most
popular types is the oscillating sprinkler. It sprays from side to side,
has a fine spray, and the area it covers, which is oblong, can be adjusted.
- More suitable for
larger areas is a pulse jet sprinkler. It sprays in a circle in one
direction at a time. Its distance of spray can be adjusted.
- The rotary sprinkler
sprinkles the lawn in a circle. The fineness and distance of the spray
can be adjusted on some models - some have two arms; others have three.
- Static sprinklers
have a spike at the base, which is pushed into the ground. Water distribution
is good and is delivered in a circular pattern.
- A sprinkler hose
is flat and divided up into three or four pipes joined together and
has many small holes along its length, which gives a fine spray. This
is very handy on lawns as it is simply laid on the lawn and moved when
the grass has received enough water.
- Note that the better
the water pressure the better the delivery of the spray will be.
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REMOVING
FALLEN LEAVES
In autumn and winter, clear away any fallen leaves from the lawn by brushing
or raking them up and removing them; a layer of leaves left on the lawn
reduces evaporation, and the resulting humidity can encourage turf diseases.
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AERATING
THE TURF
Aeration is vital since it allows deep root growth and so
helps the turf to become established as well as reducing soil compaction.
It is also important to reduce excessive thatch, the organic matter consisting
of decaying blades of grass, rhizomes, and stolons that accumulates on
the soil surface.
There are several ways of aerating the soil and removing thatch. These
include scarifying, slitting, hollow tining, and spiking.
Scarifying
removes thatch and permits air to enter the surface of the lawn.
Slitting
allows air into the soil.
Hollow tining
removes thatch, aerates the soil, and relives soil compaction.
Spiking
allows air into the soil, and can also relieve soil compaction.
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ROLLING
Rolling is not essential; nut done in spring it may help to resettle the
surface after any maintenance work carried out in autumn and any possible
upheaval caused by frost. The traditional practice of rolling lawns frequently
is unnecessary and can cause problems of compaction, particularly in heavy
soil.
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TOP DRESSING
Immediately after autumn maintenance work, apply a top dressing, on a
dry day if possible. This helps reduce the thatch by keeping the lawn
open and aerated, fills core holes, and helps to level the surface.
Ensure that the top dressing does not smother the grass by luting or brushing
it into the surface and any core holes. Luting also helps level any slight
surface irregularities.
Weigh out the correct amount of top dressing for the lawn area and apply
it on a dry day. For a large lawn it’s best to use a machine. For
small areas the top dressing nay be applied by hand. Spread it evenly
over the lawn with a shovel or spade. Use a lute or besom to work in the
dressing, keeping a steady pressure to distribute it evenly, and water
thoroughly.
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Address:
290 Kingsnorth Road
Ashford Kent.
TN23 9LU
FAX:
01233
629010
PHONE:
0800
096 1617
